The Palio

The Palio is a 90-second rampaging race of 10 horses and their jockeys in a course around Siena's il Campo, preceded by a two-hour pageantry, and the passion of the whole Siena.

It is Italy's most popular horse race that derived its name from the latin word pallium, an embroidered banner that is offered as a prize to the winning contrada. In this case, the banner is embroidered with the image of the Virgin Mary, another ancient Sienese passion.

To the thousands of tourist that flock Siena twice a year to witness this spectacle, this is probably just one race they just have to see once in their lifetime. To the Sienese, the Palio is a commemoration of their historic past - from their victory against Florence, to their ghastly defeat in 1560. It is also a spectacle that takes 12 months of preparation and a lot of patience.

Twice a year, at the 2nd day of June and the 16th of August, each contrada puts on their native costumes and join a colorful parade that precedes the actual race. The flag-throwers of each contrada put on a dazzling display during the parade. During the parade a medieval carroccio bearing the prized palio is drawn by a yoke of white oxen and circles the Campo.

Although Siena has 17 contrades, only 10 gets to participate in the race - the seven who did not run in the previous one, and the remaining three drawn by lots. The horses are selected also by the same method. Each contrade gets to choose their jockeys.

The race rule is simple - no grabbing of your opponent's rein. Practically everything else is allowed to win the race. Even a riderless horse is allowed to win the race, and when that happens, the horse is almost deified and the hooves painted in gold.

The race itself lasts only 90 seconds, with the winning contrada getting the palio, and the right to a post-Palio carousing that goes on for days on end. Visitors are welcome to join in, in most cases.

There are two ways to see this exhilarating event. Free - from the center of the Campo, always very crowded and very hot but this is where the real excitement is, or by booking a viewing stand well in advance (cost around €300,00-€600,00). Ticket prices will vary depending on the establishment or hotel that sells it. Ask your travel agent how you can buy tickets to the event if this is the way you want to go.

Although the Palio is a very exciting race, some people cannot stand it, and instead watch it on TV or go the church and pray instead. The Duomo is the perfect place to find a quiet nook for this.